Ellen and Ed Zacko Sail around the world in the Lyle Hess designed NorSea 27 Entr'acte!_____________________________FIND US AT - http://enezacko.com
Entr'acte---The music played before the second act of a Broadway musical.

    

                 The Voyage of Entr'acte Continues 

                                            with  Ellen and Ed Zacko

                                       

       


¡Sevilla
                   Otra  
                                 Vez!


                         
       
   Home at Club Nautico                                                        Queen Isabella's Library

      After seven years in the Pacific, Entr'acte is once again docked at el Club Nautico de Sevilla!

Sevilla

Sevilla

Sevilla, September, 2013

Our return to Sevilla was everything we had hoped for.  All of our friends were there to greet us and even  after almost ten years away, it was like we had never left.  No one wasted any time.  The fiestas commenced immediately and we were overwhelmed with music, dancing and of course FOOD in all of its Spanish abundance!

                                                        
              ¡Viva España¡                             La Famila Suarez                       Paella for 300 people               La Giralda Tower


Sevilla will be our base for the next few years.  We plan trips into the Med, over to Morocco and of course a return to the Azores.

As Entr'acte rests and recovers from her long saga, we are in Arizona  practicing hard to regain our proficiency at dancing the Sevillana, happily playing Jazz to sold out concerts and counting the days until our return to Sevilla for Semana Santa and La Feria.

Stay Tuned!



Les
           Canaux
                           de
                                 France



                       
                 
The first of 190 locks                                                                                       St. Mames                                     
                          

After a week of playing non stop Gypsy Jaz at the Django Reinhardt Festival,  we left the Seine and the river current behind  to enter the French canal system  which would take us across France to the Mediterranean. 

The French Canals, June to September, 2013

In July, 2013 we entered the Canal du Loing which took us through Briare and the famous bridge canal designed by Eiffel. The canals were narrow and quiet,  much in contrast to the Seine.  

                                            
               Eiffel's Pont Canal                     One way traffic                      France, the quiet way                   Chatteau Busiere


Unlike the Seine, we could stop and tie up wherever we pleased.  There was far less traffic and life was easy. The scenery was simple but spectacular.    The restaurants were few as we were really in the countryside of France.  

                                   

                Stop anywhere                          The long road                                   Solitude

We were joined for two weeks by John and Paula from Mr. John VI.  They left Mr. John on the hard in Malaysia for the cyclone season and made a trip to Spain for a "vacation" in thier home overlooking the Mediterranean. There are 190 locks between Paris and the Mediterranean.  Some we had to work ourselves while others were automatic.   Entering and leaving the locks many times tested our boat handling skills to the limit and it was nice to have crew to help operate the locks.


                                          
           Entering the lock                         Happy Daze!                               Cranking the lock                      A stop for bread


This voyage was a far cry from the ocean.  No current, no swell, no waves.  The narrow canal is less than 4 feet deep.  We could, and did, tow Entr'acte by hand if necessary.  Of course there were other boats besides Entr'acte and we would sometimes share a lock with someone and pair up for the day.  This arrangement always led to new friendships.

                                                  
                 The Crew                             Roadside lunch                             New friends                                       Ibis


The canals certainly had their element of excitement.  190 locks.   From time to time the automatic locks malfunctioned and got out of control and oh boy!  Things could become very exciting indeed!


                                                                                 
                   Up-Locking excitement                                 Down-locking                                           7 lock staircase


Entr'acte made her way across the  European continent and eventually entered the river Soane and finally the "mighty Rhone."  Again we were back on a river but this time we were going DOWN CURRENT.  The Rhone was spectacular and in itself worth the trip.  There are only five locks on the Rhone but they are absolutely massive with a 22M(75ft)drop.  For some reason they were more awe-inspiring than the locks of the Panama Canal.

                                         
                   Medievil churches                       Castle on the Rhone                Rhone Lock                   Massive!


Arriving in Sete on the Med we quickly turned Entr’acte into a sail boat again and flew across the Gulf du Lyon in a full Mistral wind leaving France and entering Spain to take time to visit John and Paula at their villa in Alicante while waiting for the West wind to drop and switch to the East.  


                                            
                   A sailboat again!                           Into the Med                           Strait of Gibraltar              Sevilla here we come!


The wind eventually shifted back into the East and made for perfect conditions to make their final jump to Gibraltar.  It was September and the Mediterranean winter was upon us.  We were also "smelling home" and were on the final push for Sevilla.  We departed  Almerimar,  150 miles from Gibraltar, on September 15 with a plan to arrive at the Strait just after sunrise to connect with the West flowing current.  The plan unfolded smoothly.  After a beautiful overnight sail we arrived at Gibraltar exactly on time.  It was a beautiful sunny Sunday morning as we entered the Strait with 10 knots of wind astern.  Fabulous sailing!   We had transited the Strait many times over the years and knew what to expect.  Usually, whatever wind you have upon entering the Strait  is doubled by the time you exit (10 knots becomes 20).  This is due to a venturi effect that is created between Europe and Africa funneling through the narrow(16 mile) strait.  As the wind increased, we shortened sail.  It continued to increase and again we reduced sail.  Within 20 minutes, our pleasant ten knot  breeze had become a whopping FORCE 9 and reaching  68 knots,  just under hurricane force.  This was a full Levanter, completely unforecast, which is not at all unusual for the Mediterranean (the unforecast part).    Entr'acte was screaming along at 8.5 knots under bare pole---no sail at all!  We were safe enough but we were flying!   To ease the strain on the rudder we unrolled an extremely small amount of jib and Entr'acte shot ahead rocketing out of the strait into the Atlantic at an astounding 10 knots!   Welcome Home!  

We had no desire to round Cape Trafalgar in this wind and so abandoned the rest of our plan to make directly for Chipiona at the mouth of the Guadalquivir. We made for Peurto Barbate  10 miles away  and waited comfortably for two days until the winds returned to a reasonable strength.  What a ride!

While waiting for the wind to calm down we received some disturbing news from our friends in Sevilla.  The opening times of the lock and the draw bridge had been changed to times that were not at all convenient  for pleasure craft and thus would take some serious re-planning.
Our run from Barbate to Chipiona was easy and without incident but the weather forecast was for serious rain in a few days and as much as we wanted to enjoy this delightful little town for a few days, we had to press on to Sevilla the next day.

We usually take two days on the river to reach Sevilla but this time we departed Chipiona at " 0 dark hundred" and pushed hard all day to arrive at the lock by the opening time of 21:00hrs connecting with the bridge at 22:00 and finally, like two thieves in the night  Entr'acte arrived at Club Nautico de Sevilla.

What a saga!    From New Caledonai to Le Havre by ship and then crossing the entire continent of Europe  and across  to the Mediterranean in seven months!  It was a Herculean effort with it's share of challenges but we made it. What a voyage!

 We are home!


Entr'acte
                  est 
                             arrivé  
                                         à
                                                 Paris!

                 

On June 11. 2013, Enr'acte arrived at Le Port D'Arsenal de Paris.  It doesn't get any better than this! 

Paris

The River Seine was lovely but stopping places were scarce.  The guides would indicate a good  Halte Nautique but when we arrived there was nothing there.  It was a bit maddening. But we eventually would find a nice spot outside a lock but it was a bit tedious.

We were advised  to stop just after the final lock 5 miles from Paris for the night and make the last run at 06:00 so as to avoid the fierce river traffic of tour boats, ferries and cargo peniches.   Again, that was not to be. There was no longer any place to stop between the lock and Paris so we ended up arriving in Paris during the busiest time of the day.  The traffic was outrageous,!  Feries, construction barges, water taxis, sight seeing tour boats, peniches carrying cargo, police boats and fire boats  but in the end we managed to travel through without incident.

We locked through to  the Marina d'Arsenal smack in the center of Paris.  It does not get any better than this. 



                                                                
                       Arival in Paris                                 Port D'Arsenal de Bastille                               The Djazelles

Paris was a blast.  We were within easy walking distance of everything we could want or need---everything except diesel fuel.   Even in Paris, all fuel had to be ferried by jerry can sometimes a great distance and on foot.  There was a diesel barge that serviced the peniche fleet but they only dealt in large volumes and we were too small.

Our main interest this time in Paris was to take in the Jazz clubs and participate in the numerous Jam sessions throughout the city.  In this, we were not disappointed.  The sessions were many, the clubs affordable and the musicians outstanding.  We were readily accepted by the jazz fraternity and indeed treated like royalty, making many new friends throughout our stay.  There is this myth of the unfriendly, angry Parisiene.   Well, we certainly did not encounter them.  Every single person we met was the epitome of friendliness and courtesy.




                                                        
                         Ellen and Matthiew                                Club 37 in Paris                   Jam at the Django Festival

Honfleur and the Seine

        LeHavre was a wonderful place to  arrive and re-group after the pacific.  Everything was available to us and withing walking distance. Eventually we were ready to head off for the Seine.  

 Entr'acte  arrived in Honfleur in grand style on Tuesday May 7, 2013.   The 14 mile trip  from Le Havre into the  dreaded mouth of the Seine went smoothy.  Our tide, current and lock time calculations were spot on . We connected with the lock at exactly slack current and passed through the lock without incident.  Our new home was inside the basin float of the Vuex Port de Honfleur.



                                                     
                   Arriving in Honfleur                                Veux Port                            Port Captain Julie and Nana

Honfleur is the jumping off point for the trip up the Seine and on to the European Canal system.  It is an opportunity to meet new friends going the same way but also a great spot to re-unite with old friends as well.    After several days exploring this beautiful old village we were anxious to move on to Rouen and Paris.  This next trip is a real challenge and we had much to co-ordinate.  The problems are numerous.     The Seine is a very busy river with constant commercial traffic of all sizes.  It is tidal. The current is swift and treacherous.  There is absolutely no place to anchor along the way. The holding is poor. Outside the channel there is little water and numerous underwater dikes ready to rip out your boat's bottom should you encounter one.  Pleasure craft are forbidden to travel the lower Seine between  1/2 hour after sunset  and 1/2 hour before sunrise.  The result----we would have  to make the 60 milestrip from Honfleur r to Rouen in one go. All of this is just for openers.  

It works this way:

We need to depart the lock at Honfleur 1 hour before the change of current, low water, at the lock and no eariler than sunrise.  At low water there is not enough water outside the lock to exit.  If we miss this time we must wait until one hour after low water and lose two vital hours of favorable current which will now prevent us arriving in  Rouen before it turns against us.   If we get this right, the tidal difference between Honfleur and  Rouen is such that by the time we run out of  incoming tide from Honfleur we are far enough up river to pick up the incoming into Rouen.  This is called "catching the rolling tide" and is what we must do, otherwise the adverse current is so strong as to make the the distance in daylight impossible.    Oh, and did we mention the weather?   This window of opportunity occurs for only three days in every 10.  Miss it and you wait for 10 days and hope that when it next comes around there is good weather.  The Seine in a gale is bad news!

So we do our best homework and catch the last draw bridge opening from the Veux Port the afternoon before we wish to leave and spend the night tied to the sea wall outside the lock.  The plan is to pass the lock at 06:00, enter the Seine one hour before the current change and buck that current for one hour before we catch our ride.  Sounds good.  Looks good. We were ready.

Everything goes like clockwork. We exit the lock and encounter the fircest current, swell and wind combination that we have ever seen.  Entracte, without a mast rolled horribly but it was only for a few minutes until we made the turn onto the river.  We held our breath until we were certain we were in deep water and actually on the river.  We knew we would buck the current for this first hour but even though it was the last of the out-going tide, it was fierce.  To be out here in the  full ebb would be a disaster.  We cleared with port control and they bid us good journey. We were off, doing 2 knots over the bottom.  Oh well,   in an hour we would be flying at close to 10.  We increased our rpm to 3100 and three minutes later the engine shut down. Stone-----Cold-----DEAD!

Fortunately we were still close to the lock and the Honfleur Sauveteurs en Mer effected a quick rescue.  The trouble was caused by a clogged exhaust elbow.  By the end of the next day we were again fully functional but alas, we had missed this window and now had to wait for 10 more days.

This turned out to be a lessing in disguise because we were "stranded" in Honfleur just in time for the Festival Marane and the blessing of the fleet.  We dressed ship and enjoyed the festivities.  An added bonus was we had a wonderful reunion with UIla-Britt Lyman from the Danish yacht Ghoster.  We met her and her late husband Bent way back in 1983 on our first trip to Portugal and had kept up a correspondence ever since. Bent has recently passed away but  Ula-Britt came all the way to Honfleur  to see us and we had a wonderful reunion in the rain.



                                                                   
         Allen and Yvonne on Dolphin III               Ulla-Britt comes from Denmark             Rescued by Le Sauvetuers

Finally our chance came again and this time we flew up the Seine to Rouen, made famous as the city that burned Joan of Arc.  

While in Rouen  Thibaud and  Catherine Tibierghen along with their son Tituan,  showed us immense hospitality and  helped us make our final preparations for  the trip to Paris and beyond.

The trip onward toward Paris was not at all easy.  Because of heavy spring rains, the Seine was in flood and we were continually bucking a 3 knot current every single day, all the way to Paris.    In addition to this,  there were several overheating problems caused first by  a plastic bag caught in the engine intake and a second one due to a faulty---brand new---water pump impeller--which saw  us hanging on a pole for a day making repairs.   Then, there were  also fuel problems,  meaning, you could not buy any!  There are thousands of boats plying the Seine all using diesel but strangely there are no fuel stations along the Seine where  you can buy it.  There was NOTHING from Rouen onward. 



                                        
         The Family Tiberghien                    The first of 300 locks                         Peniche on the Seine

Voila!  
                Entr'acte
                               is in
                                         Le Havre,
                                                           France.


 
                                                                                                                                                                       

                          CMA CGM Matisse                                  Just Lauched-hello LeHavre                                                      LeHavre


On April 23, 2013, Entr'acte arrived safely in LeHavre France.  The entire voyage took forty-seven days and despite several gales she arrived without a scratch.  We were priveledged to ride on board Matisse from Savannah, GA all the way to LeHavre. This was a fabulous experience and will be detailed in full at a future time.

Upon boarding Matisse we looked high and low but could not find Entr'acte.  At dinner on the first night at sea, Ronald the messman said "Oh, the little white boat all covered in plastic with the mast lying across it."   "Yes, that's it."   "I will take you to it tomorrow."  The next morning after breakfast Ronald took us aft and we looked all over but could not find it. He asked one of the crew. "Oh, yes, that was unloaded in Australia!"  Oh Boy!  We were stunned!   The Captin began a computer search of the cargo and finaly found her stowed out of sight below decks.  He took us to see her and she looked just like a Mummy in a Tomb.   What a relief.

The Atlantic crossing was a brief 13 days and included two gales but thanks to outstanding seamanship on the part of Captain Dragojlovik all went well.



                                                                                         
                            The Mummy in the tomb                                                                            Rising from the tomb                                                                 Please don't drop her!


Matisse arrived in lehavre at 14:00 and by 18:00 Entr'acte was launched.  The stevedores lined the dock and cheered, the entire crew of Matisse waved goodbye, Capt Dragojlovik sounded the ships horn and Harbour Control came on the radio "welcomed to France" and offered us a pilot boat as escort to the marina.



                                                                                          
 
                          Floating again                                                                                                What a mess!                                                                       We're gaining on it!

 

We arefloating again and  right now we are both exhausted after our arrival. We have been working full days to prepare Entr'acte for her next voyage---Up the Seine to Paris and on to the French Canals down into the Mediterranean.

You can see the entire track of Matisse as well as our trip across France. Just click on the spinning globe.

Entracte in the Panama Canal

For the past month we have been tracking Entr'acte's progress back across the pacific on board CMA CGM Maisse.  Thenks to the modern miracle of AIS we were able to plot her approaches to the varios stops along the way.
The route of Matisse began in Noumea, New Caledonia and so far has included the ports of Sydney and Melbourne in Australia, Napier and Tauranga in New Zealand and Punta Manzanillo on the Caribbean side of the Panama Canal.

Below is a selection of screen shots taken from the AIS  plotting center as well as those captured when Matisse transited the Panama Cana
 

                                                                                           
                                           All ships approaching Panama Canal                                              Ais plot Matisse in Miraflores Lock

                        
At 03:00 on April 3, 2013, Entr'acte  made her second passage of the Panama Canal on Board CMA CGM Matisse. There are so many containers that Entr'acte can not be found.  We hope she is in there somewhere!

                                                  
                     Miraflores Lock                                                  Gatun Lock                                                             Gatun Lock                                            Exiting Gatun Lock

Next stop for Matisse and Entr'acte will be on April 8, Savannah GA where we will both go on board Matisse for the final leg of the trans-Atlantic passage to arrive in Le Havre, France on April 23.  Here's hoping for good weather in the North Atlantic.

Follow Matisse and Entr'acte-------click the spinning globe.

See you soon.

  



         CC Matisse with Entr'acte bound for LeHavre, France
Adeiu
          Pacifique!
                            Nous Allons
                                       en France!

Entr'acte's Pacific voyage is now complete. It has been a terrific ride; Panama, Costa Rica, Galapagos, French Polynesia, Tonga, Fiji, Vanuatu and New caledonia but now it is time for something new.  She is now on board CC Matisse bound for LeHavre to begin the next chapter in her world adventures.
Click here for the latest news. To follow Matisse click the spinning globe in the upper right corner of this page.

      Greetings   
            from
       Vanuatu,
            and
  New  Caledonia!
       

                    

     
                Yes, Someone lives here!
  
After two wonderful years in Fiji, it was time to move on. Entr'acte set sail for Vanuatu on June 29, 2012.  Vanuatu was very laid back compared to Fiji. The villages while quiet were picturesque.


             

The Ni-Vanuatu are every bit as friendly as the Fijians but their extreme shyness is in direct contrast to the Fijians.


                       
Welcome to Dravai Village!

                         Off to market

The Ni-Vanuatu live off the land.  If the jungle provides it, they use it.  If it is not found in the jungle, they don't need it.


The entire island of Anietyum is without electricity or running water.  There are no motor vehicles of any kind, no internet, no telephone, no stores or shops.  If you dont have it, you wont get it here!



     

The Cultural Festival at Port Sandwich on the island of Malekula is not to be missed.  On a score of one to ten, this was a 50!


                        Harvest Dance

       
         Screaming into New Cal at 7 knots!

Entr'acte arrived in New Caledonia on August 1, after a boisterous three day passage.  Once through the notorious Havana Pass we we were flying along at 7 knots with the wind astern.

The wind blows like this every afternoon but inside the lagoon it is smooth sailing.




Port Moselle, Noumea, New Caledonia.  A real dock, water, electricity and high speed- reliable- internet.  What a treat! This was the our first real marina with  such amenities since Trinidad way back  in 2007.
        


                       
A marina at last!

      
                Magic Bay, Baie de Prony

Even though Noumea was crowded, there were ample places to go and be alone.
                              


Entr'acte is now stored at Nouville Plaisance Chantilleir  awaiting the end of the cyclone season.
In March, she will be hoisted on board the CC Mattise and sent to LeHavre, Northern France.  

The plan is to cruise the Seine to Paris, the Canal de Nivernais and the Rhone to the Mediterranean and then on HOME------to -----Sevilla!

                  

                At least she won't blow away!


Ship Track Position Reporter

You easily can follow Entr'acte's progress through the Ship Track position reporter.  This is a free service of the Maritime Mobile Service Network, a dedicated group of HAM Radio enthusiasts that maintain a  radio network for ships at sea.  Through MMSN we have world-wide access to emergency communication, daily weather reports, and daily position reports or we can just take the opportunity to pass the time at sea by calling Net Control to just  say "hello!"

When on a passage we file daily position reports over the high frequency radio to MMSN which they post on the Ship Track web site.  Just click on the link above and you will be automatically connected to Entr'acte's personal Ship Track page.  There you can see our daily progress, or lack thereof!  If you play with the zoom tool on that page, as you zoom in you will see a series of red dots which represent each individual position report
(be careful, a little zoom gets you a lot).  Place your cursor on a dot to see the time, date, our latitude, longitude and a brief description of the conditions on that day.  You can also adjust the page to view specific lengths of time from one week, one month or all positions filed.

If there is no updated position report, it should not be viewed as a disaster.  It could mean that we had very bad radio propagation that day, low battery power, laziness or bad weather.   It might also mean that we are in a harbour and off the boat exploring or we are very busy having a grand time and just plain forgot!

You can track any vessel that files position reports.  All you need is their radio call sign---Entr'acte's is KC2JBX--just go to the 
Ship Track home page
, enter the appropriate  radio call sign and off you go!

It's easy! Check it out!